Mar 26th, 2007
Otavalo and the Northern Highlands
Day 2 - Saturday 24th March ‘07
Last evening, we decided that instead of wandering the delightful old colonial area of Quito, we would venture to the highlands.
Otavalo is 90 minutes drive due north on the Pan Ameriacan highway, an overblown description of a ragged, pot-holed experience. Left & right have little meaning, - avoid the potholes, the trenches, the lurching rainbow buses, the old ladies herding the cattle, and the tethered pigs grazing on the banks.
Otavalo is an Andean market town extraordinary. The ultimate tourist trap. < (see photo).
The Saturday craft market bubbles away in a blaze of colour. Every imaginable type of woven and knitted goods. Panchos, rugs, alpaca gloves & socks, leather goods, wood carvings etc, etc. The local indigenous people, the Otavalenos are the most industrious of the many groups of indegenas. Big trucks abound, half built mansions proliferate behind village shacks in the surrounding highlands. Can all this wealth derive from a few hard-sold knitted gloves & socks??
Before Otavalo, we dropped down to Lago San Pablo, eight or nine km. SE of the town. (see photo below - Lago San Pablo ).There are a number of haciendas and cabanas around the edge of the lake. We checked in to Hosterias Jatuncochas. A classic picture book setting, surrounded by ancient, softened & greened volcanoes, now populated by giddy cows, clinging onto the precipitous slopes.
I have a theory that such livestock only graze the fields in a clockwise movement - their right legs being longer than theri left!!! - as yet to be investigated.
Lounging at the side of a Swiss landscape is hardly challenging for the adventure tourist. During the late evening, I am prompted by my sometime associate and technical advisor, Oscar, to go on a night hunt for `sapitos’. `Sapitos’ is the endearing name for little frogs, whatever their size. They sound big, disproportionately huge. more clicking than croaking. We venture out with torches, but find none. They call all around us, backwards and forwards, informing their friends that the `gringos’ are out. No luck, but they must have been small frogs, no??
Day 3 - Sunday 25th March ‘07
A lazy late breakfast. The lake a millpond, mirrored smoke jointly rising and falling from the distant shores, the only movement. Apart from the house martins? skimming for insects, then soaring to the adjacent thatched cabana.
Then a treat for Oscar, we drive a winding, lurching track to Parque Condor, a sanctuary and refuge for injured raptors. The nurtured birds of prey are later released to the wild. We see Eagles and hawks flying. The Eagle descends to the valley below, (see photo - Eagle’s valley), and hesitates to return. Some 3 km away, he circles a far off forest, then gracefully quarters the sky before diving to his handler. A great place to see some of the grand birds of the Andes. Yes, caged, but soon to be released. New patients arrive every week, the work being supported by grant. (see photo - Snowy Owl), (see photo - King Vulture) and (see photo below - El CONDOR)
Uneventful drive back. Stop for biscochas and cheese in Cayembe. Must pack now for the jungle. Flying at 1130 tomorrow from Quito. How do you pack clothing for five days and all those essential optics and batteries in just 25 pounds??
Day 4 - Monday 26th March ‘07
Flight to Kapawi delayed - awaiting weather report from western Cordillera in two hours.
Just a thought, should you wish to fly to South Ameriac - at all costs avoid the U S of A. Our 1hr 20min transfer at Houston, ended with a 25hr 20 min stop - thanks to the US department of Homeland Security. Screening queues thousands long, no separation of transfer customers - `a dog’s dinner, a pig’s breakfast, couldn’t organise a piss-up in a brewery, etc etc’.
EC nationals, at all costs fly via Madrid - avoid the US security debacle.
The western clouds are lifting, Kapawi awaits. (www.kapawi.com)
New blog in five days - read here
John Ellis
Always interesting to read a tourist’s perception of one’s own country… In most cases, we find ourselves numb to the “flaws”, such as the pot holes, just because with all that is wrong, we would incessantly complain…. and certainly, that is not quality of life. It is only when the “gringo” points it all out, that we reflect on how inefficient the system is and wonder how it can actually function at all. Nonetheless, it all comes down to pros and cons and what really matters. As far as my priority as an Ecuadorian, I love the family bonding, I hope that is something you have experienced in Otavalo, as all the work is shared between family members, not just nuclear but extended. The importance of family is found within all the spheres, not just the personal.
I can also honestly say that the beauty of this tiny country always inspires me to want to see more, experience more and ultimately do more to keep what is beautiful about it or to change what needs improvement. An insurmountable task, I know.
If you have the privilege to see all that Ecuador has to offer, then I do not think one could leave disappointed, just maybe a little overwhelmed by the social injustice, yet still inspired by everything else. I hope that will be your case and of course, having great company, such as the Stanton-James family, is always essential. Makes life so much more enjoyable!
Now, how to pack for the jungle? It is quite simple: 1. amazing digital camera, 2. insect repellent, 3. many pairs of socks, never can bring too many, 4. good pair of walking shoes, 5. bathing suit, 6. light clothes: tee-shirts and shorts, don’t need too many, 7. one long trouser, light 8. enough undies… unless you are James, and just don’t bother to wear any….9. if you are always cold like me or Mel, a light sweater… if you are always warm, you wont need it. 10. toiletries and towel, the basics and make sure you don’t repeat them with whoever else is going. Other than that… anything else would be just adding to the weight…and make sure you leave the jewelry at home…. Good luck and have a great trip!!!
John / Wendy and all the family.
Getting your Blogs loud and clear.
Fascinating stuff - gives a good ‘flavour’ of Ecuador - keep them coming.
We have been ‘flying’ over Quito via Google Earth - where exactly are you relative to some ‘landmark’ that you could name for us.
Weather here in Cornwall since you left has been fine /dry/warm/sunny - (law of Sod) - about time after a winter of wet/windy murk.
Regards
Your dear wife stranded in Quito while Husband plays at being a jungle explorer is having a great time spending all his money in the wonderful shops and markets;;;;
Well what can one say?
I feel that John Ellis is definitely on the right track in terms of writing about Ecuador, I especially like the way that he describes the livestock grazing in a clockwise motion. This is also relevant to the traffic in Quito, that being you can only go clockwise round the city! Whilst this might be good if you now where your going, if you don’t know where you are going you may have to go the whole way round the clock (i.e City) to get where you want to get to.
This all happens whilst trying not to get run off the road by Chivas, for those that don’t know what a Chiva is, it is a bus like VEHICULO that looks like it had a run in with Picasso on a bad day, with all it’s passengers normally having been picked up from various night clubs, the driver normally being the ring leader who also decides that the city’s one way system is the wrong way round so decides to head off in anti clockwise way whilst shouting “si se puede” which means “screw you I know best”. Look forward to hearing more, Jonathon.
Interesting comments. Glad you enjoyed your visit to Otavalo, unfortunately the weather was not at its best. You will have to go back on a clear day, it’s really breathtaking to see all the snowpeaks; starting with Cotopaxi in the south, the Cayambe from all its sides.
The people of Otavalo are to be admired, not only for their ability in weaving, but for the unity of families and the community. They not only make gloves and socks but sweaters, “ponchos”, blankets, carpets and embroidered blouses, etc. Many of them go around the world selling their products. Yet many ohers are highly educated and speak other languages other than spanish, which is not their mother tongue. Some of them have masters degrees.
For ecuadoreans is a matter of pride to see the change in about 20 years. To be noted is that although they have seen the world they have not changed their customs, for instance, men do not cut their hair and both men and women maintain their traditional dress.